Canister Filters

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Cascade Canister

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Cascade1

Combining all the Features of the Most Popular Canisters in a Sturdy, Simple-to-Use Filter... at a Very Affordable price!
The Cascade Canister Filter 1500 provides clear water for fresh and marine aquariums up to 200 gallons (pumps 350 GPH) and includes the following features:

 

  • Quick, easy push-button self-primer.
  • Easy lift alignment clamps to release vacuum suction.
  • 2 independant directional 360' rotating valve taps.
  • Sturdy tip-proof base (permanently mounted rubber feet).
  • Flow rate control / cut-off valves to adjust water flow.
  • Extra large capacity stackable filter medium containers with lift-up handles.
  • One-hand lift handle.
  • Swimming pool-style hose clamp.
  • Water cooled motor.
  • Permanantly mounted "O" ring.
  • Heavy duty construction.

 

 

Penn Plax Cascade Canister Series Review

by Rush

Overview:

The Cascade Canister filters don't really have any one feature that is amazing. However, for its price and class it is one of the most affordable units on the market. My first canister filter was a Cascade 1000, and for this very reason. They are affordable. I didn't really know if they were quality filters, but after having that very same canister for 6 years now, I can say with proper maintenance they will last. Undoubtedly you can find a higher quality, more efficient filter, but I am happy with the way my Cascades have performed.

Pros:

  • Affordable: If you're short on cash this is going to be easy on your wallet. Think Walmart brand that is solid and reliable.
  • Easy setup, easy prime. 
  • Good water movement. The Cascade 1000 moves 265 gph, the Cascade 1600 moves 350 gph.
  • Quiet: All canisters should be quiet, and this canister is no exception.


Cons:

  • The impeller housing is prone to melting. This, of course, only happens when you are running the filter dry for prolonged periods of time. With proper maintenance, it's usually not a problem.
  • The media housing is loosely connected and does not prevent bypass. This means not all of the water coming into the filter goes through the media. Especially if there is a clog, it will just flow around the sides.
  • The canister is mostly plastic. Though the plastic makes it light, it's parts are more prone to cracks and breaks.


Recommended Maintenance Procedure:

  1. Power off canister and block the flow from the Intake and Outflow valves on the motor.
  2. Disconnect I/O tubes and remove pump from body of canister.
  3. Fill 5g bucket half full with "dirty" tank water.
  4. Remove and Rinse off filter floss and bio media in "dirty" tank water.
  5. Scrub any parts that may have accumulated gunk with an old tooth brush.
  6. Refill media cartridges.
  7. Reassemble canister filter.
  8. Prime filter - If you left the intake tube blocked off and the intake filter is still underwater inside the aquarium, then all you have to do is hook it back up and unblock the flow. The 'prime' remains intact. If not, then hook the tubes back up, unblock the flow and Prime the canister.
  9. Power up. 
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Eheim Classic Canisters

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logo_eheim 

eheimclassic  

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Constant water circulation and efficient filtration enable optimal water quality

 

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A variety of included filter media traps debris and promotes effective biological filtration

 

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Quiet, efficient performance in a compact unit

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eheim guarantees constant water circulation, mechanical/biological filtration, and oxygen enrichment for a healthy aquarium. The flow and fully usable filter volume have been precisely matched with the proper filtering media to ensure optimum water quality. Compact, extremely quiet pump head. Double-disconnect valves for included for easy maintenance. Filter media container facilitates convenient filling and cleaning of filter media. Includes the following media: Ehfisubstrat - a large surface area biomedia and Ehfimech - to disperse the water and trap large debris. Includes tubing. 1 year warranty.

More Information from the Manufacturer:

 Manufacturer Stats Eheim Plus
2213-37
Eheim Plus
2215-37
Eheim Plus
2217-37
Tank Size 66 gallons/
250 liters
93 gallons/
350 liters
159 gallons/
600 liters
Pump Output 116 gph 163 gph 263 gph
Filter Circulation 102 gph 134 gph 208 gph
Filter Volume 3/4 gallon 1 gallon 1-1/2 gallons
Power Consumption 8 Watts 15 Watts 20 Watts
Filter Dimensions 160 mm x 355 mm 185 mm x 370 mm 205 mm x 400 mm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Filter Maintenance: Maintaining your filter is best done while you are changing your filter media. Rinse the filter canister and the two lattice screens with water and remove any dirt residues. Before the pump head is replaced, check the rubber o-ring. If it is worn, it should be replaced immediately. If the o-ring is not worn, it should be moistened so that the pump head can be pressed down without difficulty. The water inlet of the canister should be cleaned with a cleaning brush. At longer intervals (every six months or when build up of debris is seen), the hose system should be cleaned. The pump of your EHEIM filter also requires some regular maintenance. Remove all parts carefully and clean all parts with a mild dishwashing soap and rinse thoroughly with water making sure that no soap remains. Clean the cooling pipe and the impeller chamber with a brush. Replace all parts in reverse order of dissemble. For model 2213, while replacing the cooling pipe shaft, ensure that it is pushed in until it is flush and locked into place. IMPORTANT: if your pump is extremely dirty and the impeller and associated parts are hard to remove, soak the complete pump head in warm water and mild dishwashing soap overnight. You should never force the removal of these parts, as they are fragile.

Filter media: Filter media fulfill various functions - mechanical, biological, adsorptive and chemical filtration. They remove dirt particles and suspended floating matter from your aquarium and ensure the biological conversion of toxic waste or the chemical alteration of the water. Ideal water conditions very much depend on the correct use of filter media.

EHEIM filter pads are used to separate the different filter media layers in standard filters.

EHEIM filter cartridges made of special foam materials provide a large filter surface. They can be changed in a few simple steps and after their "running in" time they not only function mechanically but also biologically. EHEIM active carbon cartridges are also excellent for adsorption.

EHFISYNTH filter pad for mechanically fine cleaning, especially for EHEIM professionalexternal and thermo filters.

Media Maintenance: Your filter media needs to be cleaned every 3-6 months. You should change 1/3 to­ 2/3 of the EHFISUBSTRAT every 6-12 months. The EHFISYNTH pad should be changed with every cleaning and the EHFIFIX pad should be changed when it becomes flattened or every year.

Filter Media Purpose
Ehfisynth A fine mechanical filter material made of phenol free neutral filter wool that traps tiny particles of dirt.
Ehfisubstrate To create biologically sound water, as found in nature, you need a large surface area for bacteria to grow on. With an amazingly large surface area of 450 m2/liter ehfisubstrate undeniably offers the ideal conditions.
Ehfifix This mechanical filter pad is placed between Ehfisubstrate and Ehfimech to trap debris and acts as a divider.
Ehfimech This coarse mechanical filter media has a hollow ceramic design to create eddies which disperse the water into many paths and traps large debris while creating an even flow of water for subsequent layers.

 

Eheim Classic Canister Review:

By Kmuda

Overview

The Eheim Classic canister filters are the original "Canister" filters and little has changed over the decades since their first release. Some may see this as applying outdated technology. I see it as "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", as these are perhaps the most dependable and efficient filters on the market. Sure, other filters have cooler stuff (bells and whistles) and convenience features, but these added features introduce added cost and complexities into the equation while not really adding much (if anything) to what we actually need a filter to do, which is filter the water. That is what these filters do as well, if not better, than any filter on the market. Their beauty is in the simplicity of the design.

Pros:

  • Perhaps the most dependable filter on the market. There are examples of this filter being in constant use for over 20 years.
  • Filter is designed to provide the most efficient filtration possible. The filter volume, hose sizes, and flow rates are engineering specifically for this purpose
  • This filter has been in manufacture for decades, spare parts are readily available.
  • Each model of filter comes complete with all necessary media. Eheim media is of the highest quality. There is no need to incure the added expense of improving upon it.
  • Zero Bypass - Dirty water enters from the bottom and exits from the top. A very simple design concept which ensures there is no bypass.
  • All Classic filters now come with quick disconnects to simplify maintenance.

Cons:

  • Flow rates are lower than other comparable filters within this price range. While this really has no bearing on biological filtration, it does limit mechanical filtration.
  • Bright green tubing can be considered an eyesore.
  • This filter does not have filter trays for easy removal and maintenance. While some find this an inconvenience, I do not. Use of large filter bags to house the biomedia will make removal of media for cleaning as easy, if not easier, than with standard filters. In addition, trays take up filter volume which can otherwise be used by added media. Filter trays also introduce bypass issues.
  • No priming button. I've never found this to be an issue as you only have to prime it once, during initial setup. From that point forward, if following the proper procedure during maintenance (discussed later), the filter will self prime.
  • In line quick disconnects can be a little more difficult to work with than are valve blocks found on more modern and complex filters, but it should be noted that it is those "valve blocks" that are responsible for most leaks on the more modern designs.

Other information:

  • To simplify maintenance Purchase a 12"x15" media bag to hold the biomedia.
  • Use the default media, stacked as specified, with only the biomedia in a media bag.
  • The stock "Carbon Pad" can be used without concern but there is no need to replace it. I use mine as the final layer of the filter to ensure stands of floss material from the "polishing pad" do not get pulled into the impeller.
  • To conserve cost, plain ole' polyester filter floss can be used instead of the Eheim Fine Media pads, but you will want either a layer of blue bonded padding (cut to fit) or the carbon pad (I've been using the same ones for years) as the top layer to prevent the floss from getting wrapped around the impeller.
  • I believe Eheim overstates the filter capacity of their filters, at least when it comes to housing large cichlids such as Oscars. I would not feel comfortable with a single 2217 or 2215 on anything larger than a 55 gallon tank, a 2213 on anything larger than a 30 gallon tank.
  • To prevent air from being in the filter when you prime, do not connect the outflow tube. Leave it disconnected (from the other section of the tube). Open the disconnect valves on both the inflow (which should be connected) and the outflow (which should not be) and hold the outflow over a bucket. Allow the canister to fill and then allow water to exit the outflow (which is being held over a bucket) until the water runs smooth (no gurgles, bubbles, etc...). Then engage the disconnect shutoff (on the outflow being held over the bucket) and screw it back onto the other half of the return tube. Make sure all valves are open, and plug the filter back up. 

Recommended Maintenance Procedure:

  1. Fill two buckets with tank water
  2. Engage shutoffs on both the outflow and inflow tubes
  3. Unscrew both quick disconnects and carry the canister to a sink.
  4. With the canister sitting on the cabinet, place the inflow tube (the bottom one) into or over the sink and open both quick disconnect valves. This will cause the filter to backflush, draining into the sink.
  5. Once the canister is drained, unhook and remove the motor head.
  6. Remove the top layer media (should be polishing pad and carbon pad or appropriate substitutes) and place in the sink.
  7. Remove biomedia bag and place into one bucket of water (this is your "dirty water" bucket).
  8. Either dump the biomedia into the bucket or open up the bag (depends on how dirty the media is).
  9. Using your hand, swirl the biomedia around in the bucket to rinse off gunk that has built up on the media.
  10. Once the media is clean, place it back into the media bag (if it was removed) and move the media bag into the second bucket of water.
  11. Remove the course blue sponge from the canister and place it into the bucket of "dirty water", squeezing and rubbing it clean, then move it into the second bucket of water.
  12. Dump the Eheim Ehfimech from the canister into the bucket of "dirty water". Using your hand (or something to stir with) mix up the media, causing the gunk to dislodge.
  13. Place the canister in the sink and rinse it clean.
  14. On the motor head, carefully remove the impeller cover, then carefully remove the impeller
  15. Rinse the impeller clean, scrubbing it with a toothbrush
  16. Using a rag, filter brush, or q-tip, clean the impeller housing.
  17. Carefully, place the impeller back into the motor head and replace the cover
  18. In the sink, rinse the top layer carbon pad (or appropriate substitute) clean.
  19. Retrieve the Ehfimech from the bucket of dirty water, placing it back into the canister
  20. Retrieve the Sponge from the second bucket and place it back into the canister
  21. Retrieve the biomedia bag from the second bucket and place it back into the canister
  22. Replace the polishing pad (or appropriate substitute), placing the new pad into the canister
  23. Retrieve the carbon pad (or appropriate substitute) from the sink placing it back into the canister
  24. Place the motor head back onto the filter and clamp it down, ensuring you engaged all clamps.
  25. Carry the filter back to the tank.
  26. Screw the inflow quick disconnect back up to the inflow tubing remaining on the tank.
  27. Hold the outflow tube over a bucket
  28. Open the quick disconnect valve on the inflow
  29. The filter will start to refill. Continue holding the outflow tube (that you have not yet reconnected) over a bucket of water until it runs smooth (no gurgles, burbs, or bubbles).
  30. Close the quick disconnect valve on the outflow (that you are holding over the bucket) then screw it back up to it's counterpart that is still on the tank.
  31. Open the disconnect valves on the outflow.
  32. Plug the filter back up and it will crank right up.

Posted: 3 years 11 months ago by tom #1931
tom's Avatar
:lol:

2262 = Priapism in a box! :woohoo:

Speaking of Viagra...
I put some in my boss's coffee just to see what would happen.

He just got taller!

:whistle:
Posted: 3 years 11 months ago by kmuda #1929
kmuda's Avatar
Tom, I have not had the opportunity yet to determine if the heart attack, subsequent surgery, and resulting medications left me in need of Viagra (it's an old site joke people)......... but purchasing a 2262 just may serve the same purpose. :whistle: :lol:
Posted: 3 years 11 months ago by tom #1873
tom's Avatar
I am planning on purchasing the grand daddy of the classic line, the 2262.
Last week I received 20 liters of Matrix for it (the thing holds 18).
A pump that does 900 gph through that much media... makes my mouth water.



B)
Posted: 3 years 11 months ago by kmuda #1753
kmuda's Avatar
The Eheim Classic Canister Filters remain my filter of choice. Effective, reliable filtration that runs forever.
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Fluval Multi-Stage 05 Series Filters

Posted in Canister Filters

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logo-fluval

 

fluval

 

Powerful aquarium canister filter redesigned with added conveniences

  • Larger filter media capacity for improved aquarium water quality 
  • Aquarium canister filter includes necessary media for three-stage filtration

This aquarium canister filter adds extra conveniences to the powerful and flexible Fluval filtration line. Each Fluval Multi-Stage 05 Series Filter adds even more user-friendly features to ensure aquarium filtration is even easier to set up, customize, and maintain. Plus, each filter holds 35-50% more volume than round canisters of similar size and directs filtration through a complex flow path to maximize contact with the filtration media. Features patented Aqua-Stop Valve, multiple filtration baskets, and rim connector assemblies to keep the intake and output hoses in place on your aquarium. Multiple filtration baskets are already packed with the necessary media for mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. Four distinct sizes - each with increasing flow rates and filter capacities - to suit any small to mid-sized home or commercial aquarium.

Each Fluval Multi-Stage 05 Series Filter minimizes filtration worries with a series of convenient features. Aqua-Stop Valve permits hose disconnects and easy-open, one-motion lock clamps makes routine cleaning and maintenance easy. Added to the ability to customize filtration with multiple, removable media baskets and adjustable flow rates, and you've got a canister filter that is convenient, efficient, and powerful.

Includes: Instant-prime system; single-motion lift-lock clamps; clog-proof intake strainer; dual-layer foam screen; and instructional DVD to ease set-up and use.

Features Fluval 105 Fluval 205 Fluval 305 Fluval 405
Pump Power 9 watts 9 watts 15 watts 21 watts
Flow Rate (max) 125 gph 180 gph 260 gph 340 gph
# Baskets 2 3 3 (divided) 4 (divided)
Filter Capacity 3.2 L (3/4 gal) 4.6 L (1-1/4 gal) 6.94 L (1-3/4 gal) 8.94 L (2-1/4 gal)
Filter Media Foam Sponge
Carbon
BioMAX
Foam Sponge
Carbon (x2)
BioMAX (x2)
Foam Sponge
Carbon (x3)
BioMAX (x3)
Foam Sponge
Carbon (x4)
BioMAX (x4)
Aquarium Size up to 25 gallons up to 40 gallons up to 70 gallons up to 100 gallons

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total 3 Stage Filtration

  1. Mechanical - combines two thick layers of foam blocks with a clog-proof intake strainer to remove large dirt and debris particles. This design prevents the clogging of biological and chemical media - an important filtration step, since these types of media are most effective when unhindered by objects that minimize their contact with water.

  2. Chemical - included carbon may be substituted with a chosen chemical media to customize filtration for your specific tank. Chemical medias remove dyes, medications, and soluble wastes that pass through the mechanical filtration process, in addition to changing the chemical composition of tank water that is ripe with abnormally high levels of chemical toxins and/or pollutants.

  3. Biological - dedicated biological media fosters the growth of beneficial bacteria, which helps eliminate toxic ammonia and nitrite that accumulate in aquarium water. This bacteria culture biologically changes the ammonia and nitrite into nitrate, which is then removed with either monthly partial water changes or dissolved by natural plant and animal activity.

Safety and Easy Upkeep:

  1. Aqua-Stop Valve - convenient valve holds both the intake and outlet valves and creates an air and watertight seal that allows you to disconnect the hosing without breaking the vacuum. This allows you to open the filter cover for routine maintenance and cleaning and then start the system again without priming. This valve also allows you to regulate the flow of water through the filter system.

  2. Instant-Prime System - start your filtration system with a few, simple pumps of the easy-access priming pump, which initiates water flow through the check ball that is incorporated in the intake strainer.

  3. Lift-lock Clamps - durable plastic clips open the filter with a single-motion for cleaning and maintenance. This keeps the filter properly functioning during normal use, while also preventing the Pump Head from becoming dislodged from the canister by accidental bumps or curious fingers. Thus, your aquarium water remains within the closed filter system and off of your floor.

  4. Click-on Rim Connector Assemblies - minimize set-up time and hold the important intake and output lines in place within your tank with these simple, snap-together connectors. Designed to slip over the edge of your aquarium and secure all filter hoses to either the back or side tank walls.

Downloadable Fluval Multi-Stage 05 Series Filter Instructions PDF.
(Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0 or later - get it here for free)

Fluval Multistage O5 Series Review:

By Kmuda

Overview

The Fluval Multistage 05 series is a continuation of a line of filters that has been around for many years. My personal view of these filters is they are overpriced, over designed, poorly designed, with limited media capacity (when compared with rival filters), and are not dependable, suffering from the inevitable "Fluval Restart" issues. My Fluval is currently sitting in a closet, unusable.

The "Fluval Restart" problem is an issue that arises in this line of filters whereas they will not properly re-prime following maintenance, forcing you, as the aquarist, to struggle through the attempted restart, pumping the priming button, shaking the filter, whatever, trying to get water to flow again. The issue starts out small, where it does not take too much to get the water flow restarted, then increases in difficulty over time. My filter made it three years before it completely failed, but the restart problems started within 3 months of purchase. For every Fluval that has been in extended use, there is another that has failed because of this problem.

I can be quoted as saying, this line of Fluval filters are designed by Satan and manufactured in the depths of hades for the express purpose of making lives miserable. There are much better (and less expensive) options available.

Pros:

  • At 450gph, the flow rate is above respectable.
  • The split design of the trays allows for increased flexibility of the media employed. Even after my Fluval completely died, I considered purchasing another one just for this feature.
  • The "quick disconnect" design is the best on the market. Very easy to use 

Cons:

  • Reliability is a significant concern
  • The filter is oddly overpriced. For some reason, the price increased by almost $100 between the 04 and 05 line, when the only difference in the filters is the color.
  • The priming mechanism is not well designed or made. Especially with the restart problems, it is only a matter of time before it becomes useless.
  • Filter is prone to leaks from the motorhead (the motor head can get a slight lift as pressure builds up in the filter). I had to use silicone tape wrapped around the motorhead, right on top of the seal ring, to maintain a leak free filter.
  • I don't know what purpose the long sponges serve. I never removed much gunk from them when cleaning the filter, certainly nothing compared to what is removed from the first layer sponges in the Marineland C-Series (on the same tank) or even the Eheim 2217 sponge (with an Eheim 2217 replacing my failed Fluval, on the same tank).

Other information:

  • I've tried everything to resolve the "Fluval Restart" issue, replacing every replaceable component. At best, the results were temporary. There are far to many reports of this issue for it not to be a symptom of a faulty design.

Recommended Maintenance Procedure:

  1. Fill two buckets with tank water
  2. Unplug the filter
  3. Engage the shutoff and disconnect the valve block
  4. Carry the filter to the sink
  5. Unhook and remove the motor seal head.
  6. Remove each media container, dumping the contents, one at a time, into the first bucket (this becomes the "dirty water" bucket, swirling the media around by hand to clean it, then placing the media back into the tray, placing the tray into the second bucket.
  7. Remove the sponge filters, rubbing them clean in the bucket of "dirty water"
  8. Carefully remove the impeller cover and the impeller
  9. Rinse the impeller clean, scrubbing it with a toothbrush
  10. Using a toothbrush, q-tip, or rag, clean the impeller housing
  11. Reassemble the filter, placing the motorhead back on and latching it down. For the last two years, to get the filter to restart, I had to overfill my filter with dechlorinated water prior placing the motorhead back onto the filter, instead of allowing the autoprime to work.
  12. Carry the filter back to the tank, reconnect the valve block and disengage the shutoff
  13. Pump the primer a couple of times to force water into the impeller housing (another effort to limit the "Fluval Restart" problem)
  14. Light some incense and perform some buddhist prayers, hoping the filter is going to pump water
  15. Plug the filter back up and see if your prayers have been answered.

Posted: 2 years 1 month ago by toom #45601
toom's Avatar
With 21 watt the 405 would be the counterpart of the Eheim 1200XL that uses 25 watt with 320 GPH flow but loaded with media not pure pump power without Media....

That poor little fluval never had a chance :snicker:
Posted: 2 years 1 month ago by Oscarnewby #45596
Oscarnewby's Avatar
Have you had any experience with the newest line of Fluval canister filters? I have an 206 that seems to be doing great with no issues at all.
Posted: 4 years 1 week ago by kmuda #631
kmuda's Avatar
I certainly hope it stays that way. I was really hoping the redesign of the impeller housing on the "06" line solved the problems as I really like the tray layouts in these filters, but it does not appear that way. You may want to review the below thread for details.

www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=247352

The last page of the above thread contains the following input:
on page EN03 of the 06 series manual it states that the "magnetic impeller", "impeller well","ceramic shaft", and "gaskets" are to be replaced yearly. They sell a kit that contains these items for about $30.

Which would appear to be more of a necessity than a profit generator (based upon other inputs in the thread). I will add that I've been running the same impeller, shafts, and gaskets in some of my filters for 20 years. None of them are Fluvals though. My only Fluval (a 404) lasted a total of three years. The first 6 months it was fine and then it started to slowly develop the dreaded restart problems, which became progressively worse over time.
Posted: 4 years 1 week ago by yamahappy #629
yamahappy's Avatar
" 306 " is / has been very good , simple , easy to use with no priming issues at all ...
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Hang On Tank Magnum Pro System Canister Filter

Posted in Canister Filters

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logo-marineland

 

MagnumHOT

 

 

  • Long life motor design with high energy ceramic magnet for corrosion-free reliability
  • Extra long cord (8 ft) for multiple task usage
  • Adjustable split flow diffuser (patent pending) for bi-directional water circulation
  • Sweepline intake/outlet tubes for greater flow efficiency and cleaning ease
  • Two-year comprehensive warranty

 

Lightweight enough to hang directly on the back of your aquarium, yet it does the heavy duty work of two complete filtration systems. And it's simple to set up, easy to maintain and readily portable. Sleek, silent, powerful... it's a triumph of no-compromise design technology.

 

The H.O.T. Magnum is actually two filters in one, perfect for everyday mechanical/chemical filtration and quick-clean water polishing. Its powerful self-starting pump silently directs a certified 250 gallons per hour through the advanced dual-flow core and sealed media, delivering total contact, total filtration, without bypass. Its hang-on-tank, easy setup design makes it ideal for multiple aquarium water polishing. Snap-lock, leak-proof connectors eliminate the need for hoses or tubing. And H.O.T. Magnum's UL- Listed synchronous motor and epoxy-encapsulated electrical components are your assurance of safe operation. The triple duty union of a classic wet/dry biological filter with powerful mechanical/chemical Magnum filtration. For aquariums up to 50 gallons.

 

H.O.T Magnum Pro System includes: H.O.T. Magnum Canister Filter, Micron Cartridge, Carbon/Media Container, Filter Sleeve, 8 oz Black Diamond Premium Activated Carbon, plus a BIO-Wheel PRO 30 Wet/Dry Biological Filter.

 

The benefits of Mechanical, Biological, and Chemical Filtration

 

Mechanical Filtration is the physical removal of particulate matter from the water. This is achieved by introducing a mechanical barrier in the water flow that traps particles of a certain size according to filter material used. A mechanical filter is only effective when it is cleaned regularly, otherwise bacteria will settle in and start breaking down the collected dirt, thus setting minerals free into the water as well as becoming a bio-filter resulting in increased nitrate levels.

 

Biological Filtration is the process by which aerobic (nitrifying) bacteria of the genus Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter oxide, the toxic ammonia through nitrite (which is only slightly less toxic than ammonia), to the relatively harmless nitrate. This process is known as nitrification, and in nature, takes place in aquatic habitats and soils where ammonia and sufficient oxygen are present. The nitrifying bacteria develop naturally in an aquatic environment and will colonize any suitable filter media such as the Polystrand filter pads supplied in the Ocean Clear Filters. Once a biological filter media has been established, it should be disturbed as little as possible since the bacteria colony maintains its level of activity according to the bio-load present in the system.

 

Chemical Filtration uses chemicals, in particular Active Carbon, to absorb organic material such as oxidation products of proteins, remains of fish medications and organic toxicants. It is also effective in removing oxidation products that are formed by ozonating seawater (slight amounts of chlorine and bromine). Active Carbon should be replaced regularly, since it gets saturated and as bacteria settle on it, it will eventually work like an ordinary biological filter.

 

Maintenance: Frequent visual inspections of your filter are recommended. Unusual occurrences such as lack of water flow, excessive mechanical or water noise, cloudy or bad smelling water require immediate attention. To ensure best filter performance and maintain full water flow, regular cleaning and media changes are recommended, at least every 2-4 weeks.

These are the easy cleaning steps:

  1. Shut down system and remove canister.
  2. Change the media. Remove the media and rinse thoroughly, replace with new media. Remove the cartridge and rinse off all visible dirt. Your cartridge can be soaked in a solution of one part chlorine bleach and three parts water. Rinse the cartridge thoroughly until the bleach smell disappears.
  3. Clean air ejector tube with nylon cleaning wand (included).
  4. Clean canister thoroughly, especially sump area.
  5. Clean impeller module, gently squeeze sides to pop open.
  6. Clean impeller assembly and inspect for wear and smooth rotation. Replace any parts that have noticeable wear.
  7. Gently clean flat exhaust gaskets with warm water.
  8. Wash d-ring seating area on canister and cover. Wet d-ring before installing.
  9. Reassemble system and return to operation.

Never use soap, abrasive cleaners, or other cleaning agents on or around the filter or your aquarium.

 

Marineland HOT 250 Review:

By Kmuda

Overview

This is the little brother to the Magnum 350 with the added convenience of being a "hang on tank" filter. Although this filter appears to be somewhat of a "tweener", make no mistake, the physical dynamics of this little guy are those of a canister filter, which makes it more efficient than an HOB filter. I own two of these, using the same type of modifications I use for the Magnum 350s. One of these two has been in constant use since the early 90s.

 

This filter is comparatively priced with an AquaClear 110 (AC110). If selecting a secondary filter, I would likely choose this over an AC110 because it is a much more efficient filter, silent, and has the added flexibility of becoming a Micron filter whenever that extra water polishing is desired.

 

I have used this as solo filtration on a 40 gallon discus tank. If looking for a canister filter for a smaller tank, and you want the ease of use of an HOB filter or do not want the leak concerns of a standard canister filter, this filter is worthy of a look.

Pros:

  • Made in the USA.
  • A very dependable filter. As mentioned, mine has been in use since the early 90s.
  • Very easy to work with, no mess maintenance, easy to move around
  • Because it so easy to move from tank to tank, it can be used for extra water polishing (using the micron cartridge) on multiple tanks.
  • The filtration dynamics of a canister filter with the convenience of hang on the tank.
  • Easy to set up, use, and maintain.
  • With Simple Modifications, along with the biowheel, is an excellent biological filter, either as a primary filter on smaller tanks or secondary filter on larger tanks.
  • With the Micron filter, is an excellent mechanical filter
  • No bypass design, same as a Magnum 350
  • Has a power button. Why more filters do not have on/off switches is a mystery to me. Makes perfect sense.

Cons:

  • Filter is designed primarily for mechanical or chemical filtration, with the biowheel providing biofiltration. However, with this design, only a percentage of the water passes over the biowheel, which limits its effectiveness as a biofilter. You have to think a bit outside the box if wanting to use this as a biofilter. These Simple Modifications make this a great little biofilter.
  • There is only a single container for media, with this container designed primarily for activated carbon. I fill this container with Eheim Ehfilav or Eheim Substrate Pro for increased biofiltration. However, the amount of media that can be employed is limited when compared to other canister filters, but it holds more media than a standard HOB filters.
  • The "D-Ring" should be lubricrated with a quality silicone lubricant during maintenance. 

Other information:

  • If using this as a primary filter, or if wanting to increase biofiltration, refer to the links located in several places above for the recommended modifications.

 

Recommended Maintenance Procedure:

Note: The below instructions assume you are using the recommended modifications.

  1. Fill a bucket with tank water
  2. Unplug the filter
  3. Remove the biowheel from it's housing, shaking it out in the bucket of water, then place it back into it's housing
  4. Disconnect the biowheel from the filter
  5. Lift the filter off the tank and carry to the sink
  6. Unhook and remove the filter lid.
  7. Remove the black tubing and air diffuser tube (clear tube), rinsing the black tube in the sink, scrubbing with a toothbrush to remove slime
  8. I use a straight length of a metal coat hanger (snipped from the coat hanger with wire cutters) to clean the air diffuser tube (lost my "nylon cleaning wand" a decade ago).
  9. Remove the media container, separating the sponge padding from the container (placing it into the sink) and dump the media into the bucket of tank water.
  10. Swirl the media around, rubbing it against each other, to dislodge gunk that has built up.
  11. Rinse the sponge padding in the sink (I use the dish sprayer attachment), being sure to turn it inside out to get both sides.
  12. Using a q-tip, filter brush, or toothbrush, clean the impeller housing.
  13. Place the impeller back into the housing, then the plastic tubing (note, look at the hole sizes in the base of the plastic tubing, lining up the different sized holes with the associated "pegs" in the bottom of the filter casing.
  14. Remove the biomedia from the bucket, placing it back into the media container
  15. Slide the sponge padding back around the media container, placing the media container back into the filter
  16. Fill the filter with dechlorinated water and then place the lid back onto the filter, securing it with the latch
  17. Carry the filter back to the tank, reconnecting the biowheel
  18. Plug the filter back up

 

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Marineland Magnum 350

Posted in Canister Filters

User Rating:  / 0

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magnum350pro

  •  Easy-to-use canister filter with patented bottom-mounted motor
  • Versatile aquarium filter converts from continuous duty to water-polishing mode
  • Large chemical filter media container for a clear and clean aquarium environment

The only filter of its kind with a patented design, self-priming, bottom-mounted motor, the Magnum Canister Filter provides the ultimate in easy setup and restart capability. Magnum is two filters in one: it converts from continuous duty to water polishing, and all Magnums now come complete with a Carbon/Media Container and Water Polishing Micron Cartridge. Water enters the canister, surrounds the media, and flows through rather than around it. No bypass ensures total filtration. All Magnum canister filters we carry have a certified flow rate of 350 gph, making them the ideal choice for aquariums up to 100 gallons. 2-year manufacturer's warranty.

Magnum Canister Filters convert easily and quickly from continuous duty filtration to quick-clean water polishing... and back again. A Magnum silently does the heavy duty work of two complete filtration systems and delivers total water-to-media contact... no bypass. No-compromise technology and highest quality materials ensure unit strength, durability and trouble-free operation.

Magnum 350 Deluxe

Includes: Carbon/Media Container, Water-Polishing Micron Cartridge, Rite-Size Foam Sleeve, Black Diamond Premium Activated Carbon, Double Quick-Disconnect Valves, Flexi-Brush, Intake Extension Tube.

Magnum 350 PRO System

The 3-in-1 Magnum 350 PRO System filtration package delivers optimum mechanical, chemical, and patented BIO-Wheel PRO 60 classic wet/dry biological filtration.

Maintenance:
Proper filter maintenance begins with frequent visual inspections to ensure normal system operation and non-stressful conditions for fish. Additionally, every aquarist should plan to devote an average of 15 minutes per week to the performance of basic maintenance and needed adjustments. These requirements include monthly, 25% water changes and gravel cleaning, as well as regular (once a month, minimum) filter media replacement. Unusual occurrences – such as lack of water flow, excessive mechanical or water noise, cloudy and/or bad smelling water – require immediate attention.

*IMPORTANT: Because all water circulation in a canister system must first pass through the filter media, extra care must be taken to ensure that clogged media does not reduce the efficiency of the filter. Carbon needs changing each month – sooner if it is no longer effectively removing discoloration or odor from aquarium water.

NEVER use soap, abrasives or any other cleaning agent on or around filter or aquarium. Clean with water unless otherwise instructed. Never attempt to open the Motor Housing or submerged Motor Assembly.

  1. Turn Motor Switch to "OFF." Close valves and disconnect. Remove canister.
  2. Change Filter Media:
    CARBON/MEDIA CONTAINERRemove media and rinse container thoroughly. Refill container with Magnum Activated Carbon and rinse carbon thoroughly. Rinse or replace Rite-Size Sleeve.

    MICRON CARTRIDGE Remove and clean cartridge – never brush or machine wash. Rinse off all visible dirt. Mix a solution of one part chlorine bleach to three parts water in a separate container. Immerse cartridge completely in solution and soak overnight. Rinse thoroughly until chlorine smell disappears.

  3. Clean canister thoroughly, especially sump area.
  4. Clean Impeller Assembly and inspect for wear and smooth rotation. If excess wear is noted, replace worn parts immediately.
  5. Gently clean flat rubber gaskets with warm water only.
  6. Wash O-ring seating area on canister and cover. Wet O-ring before installing.
  7. Reassemble system and return to operation.

Marineland Magnum 350 Review:

By Kmuda

Overview

Next to the Eheim Classic filters, these are the "grand daddy" of Aquarium canister filters as they've been in manufacture, virtually unchanged, for decades. Like the Eheim classics, their beauty is in the simplicity of the design. I personally have a Magnum 350 that has been in constant use for approaching 20 years (with no parts replacement). I have another Magnum 350, purchased a few years back, that is identical to the one purchased 20 years ago.

Unlike the Eheim Classics, these filters are rarely recommended due to their size (lack of media volume), although with Simple Modifications and use of the biowheels (in the Pro models) they make excellent, reliable to an extreme, filters.

For mechanical filters, if using the Micron cartridge, they can't be beat. So if nothing else, they make great water polishing filters.

Personally, I use mine as secondary filters, modifed for biofiltration, although historically I have used them as standalone (solo) filtration on tanks up to 55 gallons.

Pros:

  • Made in the USA
  • One of the most dependable filters on the market. There are examples of this filter being in constant use for over 20 years
  • Very easy to work with, no mess maintenance, easy to move around
  • When using the Pro model, Biowheels provide great, non-clogging biofiltration
  • When using the Micron Cartridge, mechanical filtration can't be beat
  • Compact size can fit almost anywhere
  • Filter has an On-Off switch, a concept that more filters should adopt
  • At 350gph, flow rate is respectable
  • Design of the filter ensures no water bypasses the media cartridge
  • Marineland Customer Support
  • Is a low cost, easy to use alternative for 55 gallon or smaller tanks. A great secondary filter for larger tanks.
  • Bottom mounted impeller is a design concept other manufactures should investigate
  • This filter has been around forever, spare parts are readily available

Cons:

  • Filter is designed primarily for mechanical or chemical filtration, with the biowheels providing biofiltration. However, with this design, only a percentage of the water passes over the biowheel, which limits its effectiveness as a biofilter. You have to think a bit outside the box if wanting to use this as a biofilter. The recommended (and simple) modifications linked previously (see above).
  • There is only a single container for media, with this container designed primarily for activated carbon. I fill this container with Eheim Ehfilav or Eheim Substrate Pro for increased biofiltration. However, the amount of media that can be employed is limited when compared to other filters.
  • Installation, especially with the Pro version, is a bit more complicated that with other canister filters.
  • The filter ships with "rubber band" like clamps designed to provide a tighter seal on the hose splice connections necessary in the installation of the filter. It is the intent of these "rubber band like" clamps to prevent leaks. They don't. So use of standard hose clamps (which must be purchased seperately) are recommended.
  • The quick disconnects, while functional, leave something to be desired.

Other information:

  • If using this as a primary filter, or if wanting to increase biofiltration, refer to the links located in several places above for the recommended modifications.

Recommended Maintenance Proceedure:

Note: The below instructions assume you are using the Magnum 350 Simple Modifications.

  1. Fill a bucket with tank water
  2. Turn off the filter
  3. Remove the biowheels from their housing and shake them out into the bucket of water, then place them back into their housing
  4. Engage shutoffs on both the outflow and inflow tubes
  5. Disconnect the quick disconnects, lift the filter off the motorhead, and carry the canister to a sink.
  6. Open the disconnect vaves to release pressure inside the filter (otherwise you'll stuggle to get the lid off).
  7. Unhook and remove the filter lid.
  8. Remove the media container, seperating the blue bonded padding from the container (placing it into the sink) and dump the media into the bucket of tank water.
  9. Swirl the media around, rubbing it against each other, to dislodge gunk that has built up.
  10. Rinse the blue bonded padding in the sink (I use the dish sprayer attachment), being sure to turn it inside out to get both sides.
  11. Remove the plastic tube that mounts on top of the impeller, and the impeller, from the filter housing. Rinse both, using a toothbrush to clean the slime from the surface. Also rinse the rubber gaskets.
  12. Using a q-tip, filter brush, or toothbrush, clean the impeller housing.
  13. Place the impeller back into the housing, then the plastic tubing (note, look at the hole sizes in the base of the plastic tubing, lining up the different sized holes with the associated "pegs" in the bottom of the filter casing.
  14. Remove the biomedia from the bucket, placing it back into the media container
  15. Slide the blue bonded padding back around the media container, placing the media container back into the filter
  16. Fill the filter with dechlorinate water then place the lid back onto the filter, securing it with the latches
  17. With both disconnect valves open, pour dechlorinated water through one of the filter tubes until water runs out of the other tube
  18. Close both disconnect valves
  19. Carry the fitler back to the tank, place it back onto the motor housing, reconnect the tubeing, opening both shutoff valves
  20. Turn the filter back on